The bitter cold wind kissed my cheeks as I gazed out at the snow-covered peaks surrounding me at 11,332 feet. The altitude and stunning landscape took my breath away as I stood at the “Top of Europe” overlooking the massive Aletsch Glacier—the longest glacier in the Alps and a UNESCO Natural World Heritage site. In the distance, I could glimpse the charming village of Grindelwald, Switzerland.
The town has a long history as a top destination for world-class skiing and classic Swiss alpine scenery, but elevated experiences have transformed the area into one of Europe’s most compelling luxury escapes. Grindelwald is the perfect home base to enjoy a high-end winter itinerary in the Jungfrau region, where modern mountain infrastructure, design-forward hospitality, Michelin dining, and distinctly Swiss traditions converge.
Play: Snowy Alpine Adventures
Ski Culture
The biggest draw to the region is world-class skiing and snowboarding in the Swiss Alps, which I was excited to experience. The Jungfrau Ski Region consists of three ski areas at the foot of the stunning Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau mountains. I swooshed down the slopes, taking in the Swiss chalet-style buildings, views of the Eiger’s rugged north face, and the historic Jungfrau Railway cogwheel train that cuts across the mountain, which made me distinctly aware of the rich alpine culture I was immersing myself in.
The Grindelwald-Wengen Ski Area includes the famous Lauberhorn Downhill—the longest World Cup alpine ski race course in the world at about 2.8 miles. Freestyle skiers and snowboarders will love the Eldorado Snow Park at Grindelwald-First Ski Area with features for practicing jumps, tricks, and getting big air. Try the halfpipe, rails, boxes, and ski cross course for high-adrenaline adventure on the slopes. At nearly 10,000 feet, the Mürren-Schilthorn Ski Area is the highest in the Bernese Oberland. Here, advanced skiers and boarders can attempt the steepest run in the Jungfrau Region, Direttissima, with an 88 percent incline.
The best part about skiing in this region is that adult lift tickets are only about US$80 a day. The ski areas also have dedicated downhill runs for sledding (a.k.a. sledging)—a great activity for thrill seekers—and winter hiking trails for those who want to explore the mountain at a slower pace.
Night Sledding
Sledding in Switzerland does not mean hiking up a small hill to slide down on a plastic disc, but rather a high-speed adventure on raised wooden sleds with metal runners, using your feet to control your speed. For a quintessential Swiss excursion, I indulged in a traditional Swiss fondue dinner followed by night sledding on the Jungfrau Eiger Run. Catching the train from Grindelwald Grund station to Alpiglen, I started my adventure at the Berghaus Alpiglen restaurant. Dipping local potatoes and crunchy bread into bubbling hot cheese (typically Gruyère and Emmentaler) was a wonderful way to warm up on a cold winter night. While there, I learned that, surprisingly, chocolate fondue is not a traditional Swiss tradition.
Fueled up for sledding, I hopped on and held on tight, steering by dragging my feet. Bright alpine stars filled the sky with a sliver of the moon barely making its presence. I laughed and screamed as the scenic run took me whizzing past miniature frozen waterfalls and large, dramatic icicles. The strategic lighting along the path made the snow sparkle like crystals. At the end of the ride, my feet were tired from constantly trying to break, my hands were sore from holding on for dear life, but my soul was soaring from an extraordinary exploit that I would not soon forget.
Top of Europe
My favorite way to get from Grindelwald to the Eiger Glacier (Eigergletscher) train station in luxury is via the VIP car on the high-speed Eiger Express gondola. Take the 15-minute ride in style with red carpeting, eight red leather swivel chairs for 360-degree views, and champagne to toast to the occasion.
Hop off the gondola and onto the Jungfrau Railway to take the train through the interior of the Eiger and Mönch mountains and arrive at the impressive Jungfraujoch—the highest rail station in Europe, known as The Top of Europe. At the top, adventure awaits. Revel at the expansive alpine views from the Sphinx Observatory outdoor deck, explore the beautiful and artistic Ice Palace (a great place for selfies), or step out onto the glacier itself—with a Snow Fun Park open during the off-winter months. The VIP gondola ticket also includes access to a hidden Ice Bar.
There are also several dining venues—including a fine dining experience at Restaurant Crystal—and the highest Lindt chocolate shop, where I bought sweet treats to take home to family and friends.
Historic Snow Bikes
A snow sport that is unique to Grindelwald features a wooden “snow bike” called a Velogemel, which originated in 1911 as a mode of transportation. It is a cross between a bike and a sled, with rails instead of tires and no brakes—except for your feet. It can be ridden on flat, snow-covered paths or, for a more daring adventure, on downhill sledding runs in the Jungfrau Ski Region, such as the Busslap run. There’s even an annual race, the Veleogemel World Championship, to see who is fearless enough to make it down the run the fastest. The race is a one-of-a-kind cultural experience and community event where you can support and cheer on locals. Riding a Velogemel and attending the championship race was one of my favorite activities in Grindelwald.
Stay: Deluxe Hamlet Accommodations
At the Hotel Bergwelt, guests can expect superior service, luxuriously designed rooms that incorporate a variety of textures, and elevated dining. The rate includes a delicious breakfast buffet with fresh fruit and juices, homemade jams, a variety of bread and pastries, waffles, potatoes, sausage, yogurt, muesli, and more. I got hooked on the Schtrych Schoggi (chocolate spread) on toast. For a gourmet dinner, BG’s Grill is a MICHELIN-selected restaurant serving Alpine soul food prepared on a wood-fired grill. The Fire & Ice Spa features amenities including saunas, steam bath, pools, fireplace, ice fountain, and fitness room. Relax after a long day of skiing with an indulgent massage, facial, or body treatment.
Hotel Fiescherblick is a boutique hotel nestled in the village that features elegant Nordic design, epic views of the surrounding peaks, comfortable and inviting guest rooms, masterful cuisine featuring regional products, and a warm and welcoming staff. The spa offers a Japanese-inspired onsen pool, Finnish sauna, and rain shower.
The One MICHELIN Key Boutique Hotel Glacier offers an upscale stay, with elegant rooms featuring private balcony whirlpools, award-winning cuisine, and a seasonally inspired breakfast buffet. The relaxing spa features a steam room, log-lined sauna, waterbeds, outdoor whirlpool, fitness room, and spa treatments such as massages and facials.
Eat: High Altitude Fine Dining
Located within the Fiescherblick Restaurant, the 1 Star MICHELIN Fiescherblick Restaurant offers refined dining that looks as good as it tastes. I was blown away by the presentation and creative, complex flavors made with local ingredients. It was a meal worth slowing down for, and the service was impeccable.
Glacier Restaurant, located within Boutique Hotel Glacier, is a MICHELIN-selected restaurant whose modern Swiss cuisine is a work of art. With a focus on sustainability, ingredients are sourced from local purveyors to create high-quality menu items. You can taste the freshness. I was very impressed with the Risotto with a soft 50-minute egg, Gruyère cheese foam, and crispy onions. For the ultimate indulgence, opt for the five-course Chef’s Choice Menu with optional wine pairing.
Dine on the slopes at Berggasthaus First. It was nice to take a break between runs while enjoying a sit-down meal with views of the Alps. Indoor and outdoor seating is available. In a hurry to get back to skiing quickly? Choose the self-service option for snacks and plated meals.
Images: Brands respectively and Sharael Kolberg
