Are androgynous perfumes simply the unexpected layering of notes or are they essences which prioritise seasonal functionality and not a quality per se? To put it briefly, their appeal is dictated by what you’re drawn to, be it the freshness of citrus, the warmth of woody notes, the vibrancy of spices, the elegance of florals, or the richness of resins. Several androgynous perfume formulations prioritise layering so their top, heart, and base notes perfectly sync and offer more depth.
Layering is a practice of blending several scents together; the wave of new-age scents which are chasing a gender-neutral profile is curious about this melding of unlikely notes together. To put it simply, androgyny in the perfume business is driven largely by the idea of simplicity. The absence of overly sweet, fruity, or floral notes typically associated with feminine perfumes, or intense, musky, and leathery notes common in traditionally marketed masculine fragrances is what defines a perfume that’s not aligned to one gender.
Think Harry Styles on a brunch or Benedict Bridgerton on a shopping errand through the ton! If you’re on the hunt for an androgynous scent his season, explore these year-round notes which are always serving.
Citrus Notes
Citrus notes such as lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, and mandarin can balance and lighten heavier, more intense notes such as wood, spices, and musk. For example, the sharpness of citrus can temper the richness of amber or the warmth of sandalwood, making the overall scent more balanced and approachable. Citrus notes add a bright, clean edge to a fragrance, making it feel refreshing and versatile. Bergamot, in particular, is a favourite in unisex scents for its slightly bitter, aromatic profile that blends well with other ingredients, enhancing both fresh and deeper notes.
Best Bet: Colonia, Eau de Cologne: Acqua di Parma
A staple since 1916 and renowned for its timeless appeal and vibrant citrus notes, this gender-free scent opens with a burst of fresh Sicilian citrus fruits like lemon, bergamot, and sweet orange, creating an immediate sense of brightness and energy. As it develops, Colonia reveals a sophisticated blend of lavender, rosemary, and verbena, adding an herbal complexity that balances the initial citrus zest. The base notes of vetiver, sandalwood, and patchouli provide a warm and elegant finish and its clean, crisp character appeals to anyone appreciating a classic citrus fragrance without being overly floral.
Woody Notes
Woody notes like sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, and patchouli bring a sense of grounding and sophistication to a fragrance. These notes are often associated with warmth and earthiness, making them ideal for creating a balanced, androgynous scent.
Sandalwood is creamy and smooth, adding depth and richness, while cedarwood provides a dry, slightly smoky quality. Vetiver’s grassy, root-like aroma introduces an earthy complexity, and patchouli adds a sweet, spicy, and musky element. Together, these notes create a robust base that complements both lighter and more intense notes in unisex perfumes.
Best Bet: Oud Wood by Tom Ford
Launched as part of the Private Blend collection, Oud Wood opens with a rich blend of exotic oud wood, which is complemented by notes of spicy cardamom and aromatic pepper. It has hints of vetiver and sandalwood which add depth and earthiness to the composition. The base notes of tonka bean and amber further enhance the warmth and sensuality, leaving a lingering and complex scent.
Herbal and Green Notes
Herbal and green notes such as basil, thyme, rosemary, and galbanum offer a fresh, aromatic quality that bridges the gap between masculine and feminine scents. These notes are often sharp and invigorating, evoking the scent of nature and greenery. Basil has a sweet, peppery aroma, while thyme and rosemary are more camphorous and slightly pine-like. If you’re looking for an outdoorsy, natural essence, herbal notes can be a great option.
Best Bet: Gucci Memoire d’Une Odeur
Conceived as a ‘universal’ scent by former Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele, it’s designed around a novel olfactory structure that combines aromatic and mineral elements, leading up to an effervescent herby fragrance. At the heart of this scent is Roman chamomile, a rarely used note in perfumery. Chamomile brings a soft, green, and slightly bitter character, evoking the freshness of nature and the warmth of sun-kissed herbs. This central note is supported by Indian coral jasmine petals, adding a touch of sweetness and floral elegance. The fragrance is further enriched by the deep, earthy tones of musks and sandalwood, which lend a grounding effect, while cedarwood and vanilla provide warmth.
Floral Notes
Floral notes such as jasmine, rose, and lavender are no longer reserved for so-called ‘feminine’ or ‘delicate’ scents. Floral notes are typically used as heart or base notes in unisex perfumes to soften a heavy or intense smell. Jasmine is sweet and exotic, rose can be fresh or deep and rich, lavender offers a clean, herbaceous aroma, and iris brings a powdery, slightly woody quality. These notes can soften the edges of more robust ingredients, creating a well-rounded, versatile fragrance.
Best Bet: Jo Malone English Pear and Freesia
Launched in 2010, this scent is part of Jo Malone’s classic collection and opens with the ripe and juicy scent of King William pear, which is perfectly balanced by the freshness of white freesia. This pairing creates a light and airy bouquet, reminiscent of orchards in early fall. The pear note is both sweet and refreshing, while the freesia adds a delicate floral touch that enhances the overall freshness of the composition. These deeper notes add warmth and longevity, grounding the lighter top notes and giving the scent a soft, velvety finish.
Amber and Resinous Notes
Leather, old amber and sharp herbs can offer a sense of muted sweetness of formulated with the right essences. Amber is a blend of resins that provides a rich, honeyed sweetness, while myrrh is smoky and slightly medicinal. Resinous notes are simply more complex than patchouli or orange flowers and highlight the contrast between freshness and warmth which usually leads to cleaner notes.
Best Bet: Baccarat Rouge 540
Created to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the renowned French crystal house Baccarat, this perfume embodies the essence of moody, elegant sophistication. The fragrance opens with a radiant blend of saffron and jasmine, creating an immediate sense of warmth and richness. The saffron imparts a slightly spicy, leathery note, while the jasmine adds a soft, floral brightness. As the scent develops, it invites the aroma of amberwood and ambergris. These notes give the fragrance its signature warmth and mineral depth, evoking a sense of timeless luxury.
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