In some ways, the western part of Sicily, west of the highway from Palermo to Agrigento, is a tale of two Sicilies. The northwest evokes the island’s—and the capital’s—golden days, with Palermo’s lavish Baroque architecture and a glimpse at an era of royalty and aristocracy.
Further south, its vast open expanses, blue sea melding into blue sky, gigantic archaeological marvels, and vineyards galore show another, wilder side of the island. Here’s our ultimate guide for your next trip. You’re welcome.
NORTHWEST
Sicilian Aristocracy; Baroque Architecture; Marsala Wine Route; Nineteenth Century Grandeur
The golden era of Palermo is beautifully encapsulated in the story of the Florio family, the wealthiest on the island in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. A prominent figure, Vincenzo Florio owned a shipping distribution company, a tuna production facility, and what is now the most iconic Palermo hotel: the five-star luxury Villa Igeia, named after his daughter.
The Florio family legacy is also intertwined with Marsala, the wine that put Sicily on the world’s wine radar. The sweet and smooth amber-hued fortified wine is made from grapes indigenous to Sicily, originally Grillo, Inzolia, and Catarratto. It is blended and barrel-aged, developing vanilla, nuts, dried fruits, and spice flavours.
Villa Tasca, owned by the noble Tasca d’Almerita family of winemaking fame, was recently featured in the series “The White Lotus” and has been in the Tasca family for over 500 years. Both villas showcase Sicily’s past: Villa Igeia, with its historical importance and panoramic view of the Mediterranean, and Villa Tasca, with its lush gardens, original frescoed walls and ceilings, and a swan lake amid the gardens.
The Marsala Wine Route travels through the northwestern part of Sicily. Along the way, you can taste Marsala wine at Florio and other wineries and stop at an unusual little island called Mozia off the western coast.
This island is half Tasca vineyards and half archaeological ruins discovered in the last century. As Alberto Tasca explained, “Imagine the Acropolis with vineyards.” The water around the island is so shallow that it can be walked to, and the only way to transport the fruit to the winery is via small boats.
Visit Mozia’s archaeological museum and the nearby Trapani salt mills, flat salt pans with evocative mills in the shallow waters, and shop for sea salt products. Inside the city of Marsala, stop at the new Marsala Wine Route Museum and dine at Palazzo Fici restaurant (try the local Fish couscous with a glass of Grillo) and wine bar next door.
Lodging: Villa Igeia, Villa Tasca
Wine Tourism with Lodging: Dei Principe di Spadafora
Dine: Palazzo Fici, I Pupi Ristorante
Wineries: Cantine Pellegrino, Florio, Sallier de la Tour
Play: Marsala Wine Route, Trapani Salt Mills, the Island of Mozia
SOUTHWEST
Open Plains, Ancient Temples, Women in Wine, Peace and Tranquility
The southwestern part of Sicily is a whole different matter. Views of vineyards and prickly pear trees signal a change in topography and geography from the northern zone. From its most southerly point, Agrigento, the Valle dei Tempi is a majestic UNESCO World Heritage Site, a swath of ruins rivalling the Forum but here, overlooking the sea. Scala dei Turchi (Turkish Steps) rise from the water in their white glory, sneaking up from the sea on the side of the cliff at a 45-degree angle.
The standout lodging here is Rocco Forte’s Verdura Resort, which has two golf courses considered the top in Italy. Private villas dot the olive grove and lemon tree-covered landscape, and condominium-esque hotel rooms sit closer to the main reception/restaurant/shopping edifice. All are accessible by golf carts and designed with relaxation and tranquillity in mind.
The Verdura arranges tours for guests, including visits to Valle dei Tempi and Scala dei Turchi, as well as another that focuses on the ancient Greek town of Selinunte, now the most significant archaeological park in Europe. The Verdura Resort offers a private, guided tour, “Buongiorno Valley of the Temples,” that takes guests to the Valley of the Temples before it is open to the public and culminates in a picnic breakfast within the archaeological park.
Travelling inland near Menfi, the winemaking Planeta family’s La Foresteria resort serves award-winning Planeta wines and exquisite meals from renowned Chef Angelo Pumilia. Try the world-class, Michelin-starred offerings, like Fresh stuffed pasta with fish ragout and Hibiscus pickled ginger.
The family is committed to producing exceptional wines that reflect the island’s terroir and traditions. The Foresteria offers guests luxurious accommodation, fine wine and dining, and tranquil panoramic countryside and vineyard views.
Also in Menfi, the charming Casa Mirabile offers everything on a smaller, more intimate scale. It’s a fully family-run affair with Lillo, the father, as the winemaker and son, Mancredi as the chef.
It is hard to find elegantly and authentically designed gems like this, with absolute quality in food and wine and genuine make-you-feel-like-family hospitality by the hosts.
Lodging: Verdura Resort
Wine Tourism with Lodging: Planeta Foresteria, Casa Mirabile
Dine: Planeta La Foresteria
Wineries: Gorghi Tondi, Donnafugata
Play: Valley of the Temples, Turkish Steps, Selinunte
Images: Instagram
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