London’s ever-evolving culinary scene is never short on drama, but every so often, a new opening genuinely raises the bar. Enter MOI, the latest addition to Soho’s gastronomic map, a fire-driven, sushi-forward, Japanese-inspired restaurant with great local ingredients, and a cool, calm vibe that makes for a seriously solid dining experience.
Opened on Wardour Street in late July, MOI (pronounced “moy”) is an experience, one that balances respect for Japanese culinary traditions with British produce, modern techniques, and immersive design. A collaboration of some of the most talented names in London hospitality, MOI brings with it the precision of fine dining and the warmth of a neighbourhood haunt.
From the moment you step inside, the mood is quietly confident. Natural woods, raw concrete, and soft lighting create a tactile, serene space that reflects Japan’s deep connection to nature. At the front, a welcoming bar area features high-top seating and one of the most inventive cocktail menus we’ve seen this year. But the magic begins at the open kitchen, where chefs work around a hearth-style, wood-fired grill, carefully plating dishes with almost meditative calm.
We came to MOI with the goal of sampling as much of the menu as possible in one sitting. The dishes? Sublime. MOI’s menu which is created under the leadership of Executive Chef Andy Cook (formerly of the Gordon Ramsay Group, Soho Farmhouse) and Head Chef Nick Tannett (Evernight, Endo at the Rotunda), is built around small and medium sharing plates, sushi and sashimi, and grilled skewers, all inspired by Japanese cuisine but using the best of seasonal British ingredients.
We began with the Porthilly Oyster, lightly dressed with sweet sake and finger lime, a dish that offered a delicate balance of sweetness, minerality, and citrus, awakening the palate. Then came a Tempura Lobster Claw, crispy and golden, paired with a silken curry emulsion.
Aged Beef Tartare was one of the most refined plates of the evening and, no doubt, a highlight. Topped with earthy cep mushrooms, a silky soy yolk, and crispy shallots, it was both rich and restrained. Similarly, the Bluefin Tuna Tataki, served with karashi miso and grapefruit, strikes a balance between fatty, umami notes and a citrus finish.
The grilled Beef Tongue, served with shishito peppers and marigold miso demonstrated MOI’s mastery of fire, smokiness, tenderness, and complexity on a plate. A beautiful Chef’s Sashimi Selection of eight pieces followed, showcasing immaculate cuts of seafood, from shimmering trout to buttery toro.
But the dish that lingered most on our minds? The Sladesdown Duck Dumplings, bathed in a bone broth enriched with wasabi duck fat – a warming, soulful plate that epitomises the restaurant’s ability to marry comfort with technique.
If MOI’s food is exceptional, its drinks menu is just as meticulously executed. Curated by Dino Koletsas (formerly of Harrods, Inception Group, and the legendary Artesian Bar), the cocktail list reads like a series of edible stories, playful, progressive, and deeply rooted in culinary craftsmanship. We started with Them Apples, a drink that somehow captures the essence of an apple without containing any. Built with sparkling green tea, whisky, tomato liqueur, and marigold, it was bright, complex, and unlike anything we’ve had before. Red Egg Plant brought together tomato consommé, white wine, apricot, and gin, a savoury, almost brothy cocktail that lingered in the best way.
Then came the Shiro Negroni, white port, potato shochu, yuzu sake, and chrysanthemum bitters — a captivating twist on the classic with a floral bitterness that balanced beautifully with our sashimi.
There is also an extensive sake selection, biodynamic wines by the glass, and plenty of low-intervention options, making it ideal for those who like to explore pairings beyond the usual. Diners are encouraged to choose their own sake glass.
To wrap up the meal, we shared MOI’s take on Kakigori — a Japanese shaved ice dessert — and it was anything but ordinary. Topped with English raspberries, sansho (a peppery citrus spice), and burnt meringue, it was light, bright, and full of contrast. The perfect end to a flavour-packed evening.
With space for 150 covers across two floors, including a 16-seat omakase bar and private dining for up to 20, MOI feels like a restaurant that’s here to make a statement but one rooted in calm confidence, not spectacle. The service is exceptional, with towel refreshes between courses and staff who are genuinely passionate about the food they’re serving. This is the debut concept from MAD Restaurants, the new group founded by hospitality entrepreneur Artem Login, and if MOI is any indication of what’s to come (a Spanish-inspired concept, ALTA, is next), London food lovers are in for a treat.
At a time when many restaurants feel overcrowded, rushed, or overdone, MOI offers something different: spaciousness, thoughtfulness, and flavor in harmony. It’s a rare gem, part listening lounge, part fire kitchen, part sushi temple, and one that deserves a place on every Londoner’s must-visit list.
MOI Soho: 86 Wardour Street, W1F 0TQ. Tues–Sat: 12–3 p.m., 6–10 p.m. | Sun: 12:30–3:30 p.m. You can reach out at: http://www.moirestaurant.com | @moi.soho
Images: MOI Soho and Theodora Tsevas
