Dining at the award-winning Avartana is an extraordinary experience that blends tradition with modernity. Reimaged South Indian cuisine that infuses modern culinary techniques with local ingredients – this is a desired recipe for a Michelin star. This isn’t just a meal—it is a thoughtfully curated journey into the soul of Southern Indian cuisine, reimagined with creativity and finesse, that I was very fortunate to try. Words fall short for a culinary genius like this, but here’s what I thought.
Ambiance and Décor
The moment I stepped inside Avartana in ITC Royal Bengal, I was captivated by its understated elegance. Drawing inspiration from Southern India, the décor features subtle nods to its rich culture, like the recurring banana leaf motif and wood, copper, and amber accents. While it is a distant cry from a traditional South Indian restaurant, it has all the recurring elements would define it as one.
The private dining room deserves special mention. Its chandelier, inspired by the cove of Kerala’s backwaters, is a stunning centrepiece. The room offers an intimate, exclusive setting, perfect for celebrations or special occasions.
The Culinary Experience
One can choose from well-curated menus namely, Maya, Bela, Anika, Tara and Jiaa for a palate-pleasing and aesthetically heightened experience. The highlight of my visit was Anika, which showcased a masterful interplay of flavours, textures, and techniques. Each dish was an exploration of Southern India’s culinary heritage, elevated with a modernist approach. In my opinion, the finest progressive restaurant in India.
The meal began with a Stir-Fried Chicken with Buttermilk Mousse and Curry Leaf Tempura, a delightful balance of flavours and textures. The Cauliflower Crunch with Pomegranate and Mint was refreshing, while the Pan-seared Lobster in spring onion emulsion was exquisitely tender. On the side, I had the pleasure of enjoying their Distilled Rasam, a constant companion throughout the entire course.
One of the most intriguing dishes was the Lamb Brain Fritter, paired with black pepper and butter emulsion. It’s not something I’d typically choose, but the flavours were exceptional. The Char-Grilled Pork Belly with Steamed Tapioca and Ooty Chili was another standout (and a must-have), offering bold, smoky, and spicy notes that were balanced beautifully with the soft tapioca.
My personal favourites were the Steamed Seabass with fermented gongura emulsion & butter rice, Uthukuli Chicken with Malabar parotta & butter toffee, and Lamb Rice with Okra Yogurt. The absolute highlight of the meal was, however, the Uthukuli Chicken with Malabar parotta & butter toffee which is hands-down their signature dish.
We then moved on to equally innovative desserts which include the Raw Mango Pudding with Ghee Candle – a visual and culinary treat ( and a personal favourite), and the Citrus Coconut and Coffee Ice Cream that provided a refreshing conclusion to the meal.
Beverages
The mocktails infused with Indian spices and flavours, were a delightful complement to the menu. Each drink is carefully crafted to enhance the overall dining experience.
Service
The service at Avartana was impeccable, with staff who were attentive, knowledgeable, and passionate about the menu. Their insights added depth to the experience, making the meal all the more memorable. I loved how each of the courses was explained with fine precision and every element had they own part to play in the making.
The Verdict
Avartana is more than a restaurant; it’s a celebration of Southern India’s culinary traditions, redefined for the modern palate. The combination of innovative dishes, elegant ambience, and exceptional service makes it a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a unique fine-dining experience. For an unforgettable journey of flavours and artistry, Avartana is an experience that one shouldn’t miss. In other news, the fifth and latest outpost of Avartana is now open at the iconic ITC Maurya, New Delhi. For further details and table reservations, please call 033 44464646.
Images: ITC Royal Bengal
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